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Embroidered Jacket
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Embroidered Jacket
'Rainbow' Portrait gown
Hardwick portrait gown
Pelican gown
Isabel de Valois
Coronation gown
Mary Stuart
Mary Tudor
Maria Di Medici
Moretto's 'Young woman'

I, just like probably many other people, fell in love with the various embroidered jackets that were worn in Elizabethan times - the Met Museum has one; the V&A Museum has one, two are described in "Patterns of Fashion", many are pictured in paintings...
However, I was always afraid of the actual embroidery work - even if I had *partially* embroidered them with my embroidery machine, which, however, would not have been able to embroider everything (for example, it can't do a chain stitch or sew spangles on...), it would have taken - well, like forever.

Maybe you can imagine how happy I was when I found this fabric:

I admit that it doesn't look *completely* like the embroidered jackets. However, I think the pattern of this (woven, not embroidered) fabric at least loosely resembles the basic embroidery pattern of the jackets. Plus, I like the colors.
And... again... this is my jacket, so I can make it however and do with it whatever I want - and happily so :-)

This jacket also taught me something else: Never, ever try to wear Elizabethan clothing without the proper undergarments.
When I had half finished the jacket, of which I got the pattern from Janet Arnold's "Patterns of Fashion - Cut and construction..." I just wanted to try it on. I did that over my everyday clothing, and the jacket didn't fit. As in: Not at all. See for yourself:

For that moment I was a little unnerved and just laid the jacket aside - for several weeks.
One day, when I was wearing my Elizabethan stays, I just thought I'd give the jacket another try. I put it on and, surprise...:


Front side of the jacket, pinned to my dressmaking model *with* stays below


Back side of the jacket, pinned to my dressmaking model *with* stays below

...it fits like a dream! And I thought that I had enlarged the pattern in a wrong way! But, no, I didn't - it was just about the missing undergarments!

There are almost no pictures of the making. In fact, I only have the above shown two pictures of the unfinished jacket.

Well, here's the *finished* jacket, with a thick, yet soft linen lining and satin bindings on the edges:

I felt that I would need a proper petticoat for this beautiful jacket.
For quite some time I could not decide for one color; but in the end I made the petticoat of some peach-golden Dupioni silk - *very* fine Dupioni silk, which much more looks like taffeta than Dupioni. I know that Dupioni is so not period; but because I had the fabric at hand, I thought I could use it.

The silk was originally planned for a different gown - for the skirt of this gown from the movie "First knight" which someone wanted to order from me:

but that person never got back to me, so I basically just had this beautiful fabric in my closet for over two years without finding any use for it.

Here's a picture of the finished jacket with the petticoat:

For the future I am planning to make a second petticoat, this time with a French farthingale; perhaps in satin. Plus, I'd like to enhance the already finished petticoat - perhaps a slashed border or something like that.

And perhaps one day I will be so insane to decorate the jacket with silver and golden spangles.

Contact: Please write to naergilien@yahoo.de with the word "Costume" in the subject line. My mail server will delete all mails automatically that don't have this word in the subject line; except if you are on my whitelist (which you are probably not if I have never written to you).
It may take me some days to answer - please be patient. If I shouldn't answer within a week, it's almost safe to say that I didn't receive your mail (for what reason ever) - in that case please resend it.

All images of my costumes and also the tutorial pictures as well as the descriptions of my work and various techniques on this site are copyrighted to me.
So don't take my pictures for publishing (e.g. other websites, books etc.; no matter if they are commercial or not) without asking me before you do so and especially not without getting my permission to do this.
My server is mostly set up in a way that it doesn't allow hot linking on images; so if you need to link to me, please link to one of my sites (hint: that's everything ending with ".htm" or "html" in your browser's address bar) on which you found the picture that you would like to link to.

All images of paintings or original movie costumes were not taken by me (except if stated so) and are on this site for educational purposes.
As far as I could, I have credited the original photographers and/or their sites or have mentioned from where I have scanned certain pictures. They remain property of their respective owners.

Kontakt: Bitte schreibt an naergilien@yahoo.de mit dem Wort 'Costume' in der Betreffzeile. Die Mailbox ist so eingerichtet, daß sie alle Mails, die nicht diesen Betreff haben und deren Versender auch nicht auf meiner Whitelist stehen, erst einmal löscht.
Es kann einige Tage dauern, bis ich Euch antworten kann - bitte habt Geduld. Wenn ich nicht innerhalb einer Woche antworte, so habe ich Eure Mail wahrscheinlich nicht erhalten (aus welchem Grunde auch immer) - in diesem Fall schickt sie bitte einfach nochmal los.

Alle Bilder auf dieser Seite der von mir angefertigten Kostüme, der Herstellungsprozesse, Anleitungsbilder und Ausstellungen unterliegen dem deutschen Urheberrecht, welches im Streitfalle länderübergreifend gilt.
Klaut meine Bilder also nicht, um sie zu veröffentlichen (sei das nun in Druck- oder Filmmedien, auf privaten oder geschäftlichen Webseiten etc) ohne mich vorher zu fragen, ob das in Ordnung ist und natürlich nicht, ohne von mir dann die Erlaubnis zu bekommen.
Mein Server ist größtenteils so eingerichtet, daß er den meisten Seiten keinen direkten Link auf Bilder hier erlaubt. Wollt ihr also unbedingt ein Bild von mir irgendwo verlinken, so verlinkt die Seite, auf der sich das Bild befindet (Hinweis: Eine 'Seite' ist in diesem Falle etwas, das in der Adreßzeile Eures Browsers mit 'htm' oder 'html' endet).

Alle Fotos von Gemälden (außer, wenn von mir selber gemacht) und originalen Filmkleidern (gleichfalls) befinden sich zu Studienzwecken in meinem Web. Soweit ich konnte, habe ich die ursprünglichen Quellen, Seiten oder Fotografen der Bilder genannt. Diese Bilder sind Eigentum ihrer Besitzer.

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