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Navigation for this site:
(it's best to read the entire page from top to bottom, though)
Study of the portrait gown •
Study of the movie costume
Differences between portrait gown and movie costume
How I want to make my gown
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When I had the gown on my planning site, I
wrote:
I am not quite sure if I should make the
cloak; but I already know how I can fake Ermine fur.
By now I have decided not to make the giant
coronation cloak - just the gown, but with a possibility to change. Let me explain by first
analyzing the coronation gown in the coronation portrait, and then the gown that was used for the
coronation in the movie "Elizabeth":
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The portrait gown
A gown with a wide, barely visible, pleated
skirt; it's not visible whether there is a forepart or if the overskirt is closed.
The bodice worn with the gown seems to be too high necked for a bodice, I would almost guess that
this is a doublet. Let's zoom in the neckline...:
The arrow pointing to the bottom shows the
'usual' bodice, but... the other arrow points to something beneath the cloak and the jewelry which
looks just the same (=color- and fabric wise like the fabric of the bodice).
This makes me think that this bodice is not low necked, but a doublet.
Then there's the girdle:
which, in my opinion, is made of rubies and
diamonds.
The sleeves are decorated with ermine cuffs:
And now we will get to the movie costume:
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The movie costume
The movie costume has a low necked bodice:
The fabric has some kind of overlay of
golden netting on it:
And the sleeve ends are not decorated with
cuffs, but plain (Is Cate Blanchett wearing a glove in this image? Her hand looks a bit weird.)
Just to summarize the differences and to
point out another one...:
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Difference between movie costume and portrait gown
The most obvious difference is the
fabric.
The next obvious difference is the
bodice.
Then there are the sleeve
decorations...:
| Portrait gown sleeve cuffs |
Movie costume sleeves (no cuffs) |
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And then there's the pleating of
the skirt.
Portrait gown pleating:
Cartridge pleated - historical |
Movie costume pleating:
Flat pleated towards the front - not historical |
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(the girdle is worn with this costume only together with the cloak) |
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And
here's how I want my gown to be:
Planning a mix between the portrait gown and the movie costume
| 1. The fabric |
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This is my fabric which I will use. As I have said - I already have
it at hand, so... |
| 2. The overlay |
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The movie costume has some kind of golden netting overlay -
something I will do on the 'movie costume' bodice, the 'portrait' doublet and the front sides of
the split skirt, as well as in parts on my forepart.
(Edit: This plan had to be changed during the making; read the 'bodice' page for the
reason.) |
| 3. The bodice |
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As I could not decide if I should make a 'normal'
bodice or the obvious doublet from the portrait, I decided to make both - so that I don't have
to decide  Both will have the previously
mentioned golden netting overlay, plus some decoration of Swarovski Rhinestones and pearls. |
| 4. The doublet |
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| 5. The bodice sleeves... |
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...will remain undecorated; meaning: Without the sleeve cuffs. |
| 6. The doublet sleeves... |
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...will have ermine cuffs. |
| 7. The skirt... |
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...will be pleated like in the portrait gown - cartridge pleated.
Plus, my skirt will be front split - to reveal a forepart.
I will decorate the sides of the skirt with the golden netting overlay, which I will also use on
bodice and doublet.
I'm also thinking of making some kind of "detachable ermine fur decoration strip" for the skirt
hem to be able to match the skirt to the ermine cuffs of the doublet. |
| 8. The forepart |
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The forepart will be made... well, it, *will* be made. Let yourself
be surprised |
| 9. The Girdle |
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I will also make the girdle. The two - movie- and portrait version
- are so much alike that I'll just say: I'll make the girdle
Plus, I will make a decoration for the
bodice neckline which will match the girdle. And a necklace to be worn with the doublet, of
course... |
| 10. A partlet |
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Something that - due to the cloak - is not visible in the original
portrait, and something that has not been made for the movie costume - but something I will most
definitely have to make.
I'm thinking about doing something much likely to the jeweled partlets Eleonora Di Toledo
was famous wearing for.
Or something in a fine golden brocade, like the one that was painted in "Elizabeth
with Verses", which would also incorporate the high necked ruff that's worn in the
portrait...
Or perhaps a combination of both... sigh... |
The pattern would be the one from
Margo Anderson.
Let's go on to the bodice making.
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