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Up Planning Chemise Bodice Sleeves Skirt


The bodice

I have written the following when planning this gown:

...There is one thing about this bodice that disturbs me a little:
The fact that the front seems to be 'just' standing open without being laced; yet there are horizontal folds which are usually a clear indication for the bodice being pulled somehow.
I then came to the conclusion that *originally*, the bodice was ladder laced but that detail might have gotten lost during a restoration of the painting. I will give some examples of other pictures that have ladder lacings on the bodice page to verify this conclusion.

Well, here they are - the examples for front ladder laced bodices:

Especially the first and fourth pictures remind me of the shape of the gown in Moretto's "Image of a young woman".
Please consider: The bodice would never ever stay the way it does in that painting *without* any lacings / closure at the front, and the chemise below is most definitely not said closure.
So I guess that my assumption that the lacing got lost during a restoration of the painting is right - either that, or the painter didn't bother painting the lacings... (which I just don't assume, knowing Moretto's accuracy in other paintings, which is also visible in this one - he even painted the seams on the velvet decorations on the bodice!).

Anyway, now that I know that I have to make those lacings I can happily go ahead to actually really construct the bodice :-)

Please read my decision for the fabrics and colors I will use for this gown on the "Sleeves" and "Skirt" pages (Yes, it's a little mixed up... again...).

Anyway... back to the bodice.

The front sides of the bodice, where the ladder lacing will take place, will have to be heavily boned so that they will keep "standing" straight. I will add some corset spring steel in there, some of the thicker / wider type. Of course I won't miss the obligatory side boning.
Plus, I think I'll add side back lacings to the bodice - my often mentioned jojo-ing weight practically forces me to do this; this is the only way I can make sure that the darn gown will fit me for a longer time...

I have one problem with the bodice, and that's the fact that it has a straight instead of a pointed waistline.


(picture high lightened to enhance detail)

The problem I have here is that I have no idea how to hide a waistband (of the skirt) in the small gap between bodice and belt.
I think the best solution might be to attach the skirt to the bodice, which would basically spare me the waistband. If I'm indeed doing that I will have to make the skirt with actually *three* openings faced with plackets: One at the front, two for the side back lacings... *sigh*...
However, I think that's the only way for me to prevent any skirt waistband showing up in the ladder laced gap behind the belt.
Plus I wouldn't have to fiddle around with any lacings / hooks / whatever that would prevent the bodice from slipping up while being worn - in short terms - the skirt would have to be attached to the bodice in some kind of way *anyway*, so...
Yes, I think I will sew the skirt right to the bodice, which I think will be an interesting task, considering that there shouldn't be any bulk from the cartridge pleating around the waist.

Coming to think about it... I *could* do some kind of waistband, but instead of facing upwards (as usually all waistbands do), it should face downwards. This waistband could then be sewn to the bodice.

Hmmm. I think I have to construct the entire bodice *first* before I do any steps on actually pleating / waist banding the skirt panels.

Next are the sleeves.

Contact: Please write to naergilien@yahoo.de with the word "Costume" in the subject line. My mail server will delete all mails automatically that don't have this word in the subject line; except if you are on my whitelist (which you are probably not if I have never written to you).
It may take me some days to answer - please be patient. If I shouldn't answer within a week, it's almost safe to say that I didn't receive your mail (for what reason ever) - in that case please resend it.

All images of my costumes and also the tutorial pictures as well as the descriptions of my work and various techniques on this site are copyrighted to me.
So don't take my pictures for publishing (e.g. other websites, books etc.; no matter if they are commercial or not) without asking me before you do so and especially not without getting my permission to do this.
My server is mostly set up in a way that it doesn't allow hot linking on images; so if you need to link to me, please link to one of my sites (hint: that's everything ending with ".htm" or "html" in your browser's address bar) on which you found the picture that you would like to link to.

All images of paintings or original movie costumes were not taken by me (except if stated so) and are on this site for educational purposes.
As far as I could, I have credited the original photographers and/or their sites or have mentioned from where I have scanned certain pictures. They remain property of their respective owners.

Kontakt: Bitte schreibt an naergilien@yahoo.de mit dem Wort 'Costume' in der Betreffzeile. Die Mailbox ist so eingerichtet, daß sie alle Mails, die nicht diesen Betreff haben und deren Versender auch nicht auf meiner Whitelist stehen, erst einmal löscht.
Es kann einige Tage dauern, bis ich Euch antworten kann - bitte habt Geduld. Wenn ich nicht innerhalb einer Woche antworte, so habe ich Eure Mail wahrscheinlich nicht erhalten (aus welchem Grunde auch immer) - in diesem Fall schickt sie bitte einfach nochmal los.

Alle Bilder auf dieser Seite der von mir angefertigten Kostüme, der Herstellungsprozesse, Anleitungsbilder und Ausstellungen unterliegen dem deutschen Urheberrecht, welches im Streitfalle länderübergreifend gilt.
Klaut meine Bilder also nicht, um sie zu veröffentlichen (sei das nun in Druck- oder Filmmedien, auf privaten oder geschäftlichen Webseiten etc) ohne mich vorher zu fragen, ob das in Ordnung ist und natürlich nicht, ohne von mir dann die Erlaubnis zu bekommen.
Mein Server ist größtenteils so eingerichtet, daß er den meisten Seiten keinen direkten Link auf Bilder hier erlaubt. Wollt ihr also unbedingt ein Bild von mir irgendwo verlinken, so verlinkt die Seite, auf der sich das Bild befindet (Hinweis: Eine 'Seite' ist in diesem Falle etwas, das in der Adreßzeile Eures Browsers mit 'htm' oder 'html' endet).

Alle Fotos von Gemälden (außer, wenn von mir selber gemacht) und originalen Filmkleidern (gleichfalls) befinden sich zu Studienzwecken in meinem Web. Soweit ich konnte, habe ich die ursprünglichen Quellen, Seiten oder Fotografen der Bilder genannt. Diese Bilder sind Eigentum ihrer Besitzer.

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