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As I have written on the studying page:
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I want...:
- the skirt from the photograph:

but without the court train, and most definitely without that lace apron. I
think I can also live very happily without the veil.
For budget reasons, I think I'll also go for just one layer of lace and omit the additional
sheer ruffle over the pleated hem frill. |
In short terms... my skirt will have:

blue, green, pink, purple and turquoise and can live without orange and red.
So... the making of the skirt started by getting an idea for the skirt's pattern.
The lace decorations have been sewn to the cross grain, resulting in the well
visible fact that they seem to "curve" down to the sides of the skirt - which is just a result of
them being sewn on the cross grain of the curved front pattern shape:

Shape of the front pattern piece of the skirt. Black indicates cutting lines; blue indicates the
placement of the top pleated frill and first sewn-in pleat.
(waistline is not correct, but the basic layout of the hem and the lace decorations is)
A much likely layout of "decorating the skirt on the cross grain and letting the
decorations run out to the hem" can be seen in a different photograph of Elisabeth:

And just because I already had the fabric which I wanted to use for the skirt -
duchesse silk, bought at a sale for incredible EUR 6 / $8 per yard (!) - already at hand and had a
few hours to sew the base of the front...
Here's a picture of that front part of the skirt pinned to my dress mannequin. I've already sewn in
the pleats and the small pleated frill to the middle of the front, but have not added any lace yet
and the bottom hem frills are also still missing, so the skirt will seem to be too short - in fact,
it's just the right length.
The arrangement of pleats along the waistline is also not yet correct - that's subject to change as
soon as I have also made the back portion of the skirt ;-)
 
As you can probably see compared with the original skirt, my skirt drapes much likely, even if
the bottom frills are still missing and so the skirt hem doesn't have the correct length yet.
The material is also not ironed in any way, which is why it still has some pleats and folds from
storage of the material.
The skirt was draped over the farthingale of my "Pelican gown". While this is definitely not be the
correct crinoline shape to be worn with this gown, it was still good enough for a first draping of
the front portion of the skirt.
I do have to say that silk duchesse, while probably being the most beautiful
silk material available, is unbelievable nasty to sew.
It frays and is slippery like mad.
It's wonderful to iron, though - but beware of ironing any pleats into the fabric where they don't
belong; you'll almost never be able to get them out again!
It absolutely *hates* water, so while steam ironing something like hem frills, don't dare to drop
water on the fabric - it will leave a stain.
Oh, and the fabric doesn't forgive pinning with anything else than finest etymologist's pins, or the
holes from pinning will be visible forever...
Oh, and did I mention that this fabric is a dirt magnet? Don't dare touch it without thoroughly
scrubbed hands, better white cotton gloves!
(This is just something I had to write down in order to get rid of my frustration from working with
that fabric!)
I would guess that this front pattern piece is at least 4 yards wide on the
original skirt. Mine is "just" three yards wide, as I "only" have 9 meters / about 10 yards of that
fabric for the complete skirt and gown bodice, of which, as unbelievable as it might sound, more
than 2 yards will already be needed for just the hem frills - more on that subject later...
Here are some pictures of the skirt with the lace attached. The bottom frill is just
pinned and pleated, but not ironed into frills yet.
 
Skirt front/side view.
Note that even if the skirt is still draped over the wrong farthingale instead of a hoopskirt of
correct shape and the breadth of my front pattern piece is approximately one yard smaller than on
the original gown, it still drapes considerably beautiful.
If you take a *very* close look, you'll be able to see a rust stain at the bottom of my lace
decoration - well, that's something vintage lace has sometimes...
You'll then probably also notice some gaps between the hem frill and the skirt - as already
mentioned, it's just pinned, not sewn; and it already took 30 pins to pin that frill only every 8
inches...
There seems to be something like a seam over the middle frill (over the lace) - that's just still a
pleat from storage in the fabric, which I have still not ironed.
 
Skirt side/back view.
Again - the farthingale / hoopskirt problem; I have stuffed a bit of fabric under the skirt at
the back to form a slight "bustle" kind of look; however, that didn't help me much in widening the
bottom back of the farthingale, which is still the wrong undergarment for this skirt...
Note, again, how good the shape works compared with the original gown, even if the court train - as
already announced - is missing from my gown as I don't want it.
Again... some gaps visible between hem frill and skirt base; this still results from the not yet
ironed frill just being pinned.
 
Picture of the two sewn-up pleats under the lace decorations.
Those are well visible under the lace in the photograph of the original gown, but as my lace is
less sheer, it's almost impossible to see them without lifting the lace up, as I am doing in this
picture.
In my opinion, they're not just there for decoration but also stabilize the front of the skirt.
The hem of my skirt is 6 meters / about 6.5 yards wide, the skirt being made of four
breadths of my fabric. I guess that the original gown had a hem width of at least 9 meters / 10
yards; but most of that hem would have been needed for the court train. I think my skirt is just
about 2-3 yards too small at the hem, which, taking the actual width and the missing court train
into consideration, is not too much.
However, 6 meters / 6.5 yards of hem resulted in the fact that the frills for that hem - which are
three times as long, if not pleated up - took 18 meters / almost 20 yards of 20cm / 8 inch wide
fabric.
As my fabric was 150cm / 60 inch wide, this resulted in a total amount of 2.4 meters / 2.7 yards of
fabric that I had to use for those frills. I've sewn and ironed all frills with my own hands, this
work alone took a whole day.
So - as often, just for the statistics:
Work time for this skirt, including writing up the studying page (incl.
partial studying, as I had studied the dress in parts already two years ago), constructing a skirt
pattern, cutting, draping and afterwards sewing the skirt, pleating and sewing, but not ironing the
hem frills - two days (= a whole weekend, with breaks).
Ironing the frills - another four hours (with breaks), sewing those frills to the skirt - another
hour, and another two hours for finishing all seams etc.
This results in about 25 hours of work for this skirt, including close study, writing up this and
the studying page.
If the bodice can be finished as fast as the skirt, my calculation will most definitely have to
be revised...
Here's the finished result - draped over a crinoline (hem circumfence: 420cm / about
4.5 yards) this time; but it is a round crinoline instead of the correct elliptical crinoline which
would be needed for this skirt in order to achieve the portrait / photographs look. I have, however,
arranged the crinoline in a way that it vaguely resembles an elliptical crinoline.
The waistband is still missing - I still need the exact waist circumfence, which I can just find out
by making the bodice first (and, yes - that skirt is *huge*!):

Some detail pictures of the skirt, one of them showing the rust stain in the lace.
And, yes, I am totally in love with the beautiful frilled hem :-)

Evolution of the skirt during the making...:
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| First draping of the skirt front
pattern piece; backside not sewn yet, laces missing, draped over Elizabethan farthingale
instead of crinoline |
Second draping of the skirt, frills
pinned and not ironed, draped over Elizabethan farthingale instead of crinoline |
Skirt finished except waistband,
pinned over crinoline |
What I don't like so far:
The rather plain appearance of the skirt. Honestly, it almost looks to me like a simple
bridal skirt - giant bridal skirt, but yet and still... bridal skirt.
I'm really thinking about decorating the lace with rhinestones or embroider it with silver threads.
Hmmm, I could outline each flower in silver and decorate the center of each with a rhinestone... I
think that's a rather nice plan.
Will see if my funds allow rhinestones and my time allows silver threads until the gown is
completely finished;-)
I am also a bit scared about that frilled hem wiping over the floor.
The dry-cleaning of that skirt will well cost a fortune, and I'm not willing to pay that, for
example, after just taking some pictures of the gown.
I'm seriously thinking about adding a detachable layer of cotton frills below those silk duchesse
frills. For practical reasons, I would simply sew a strip of velcro tape to the skirt, at
which I could attach such a cotton frill (soft side in the skirt, hook side on the cotton frills).
I have an idea where to get cotton frills relatively cheap, but have no idea when I can get there.
Most fun thing while making the skirt:
Draping the front piece because I saw that my estimation of the lace arrangement was
correct.
Most annoying things:
Why, sewing silk duchesse, of course. Especially the fraying almost drove me mad - threads
everywhere... I think I have well picked two spools of thread from that material, which emerged
through each and every seam while sewing...
Oh, and sewing / ironing the frills - at some point of time I thought about giving up and save for a
professional pleater who could do the work for me...
And now... let's start on the bodice.
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