Jul 082012

Diesen Beitrag gibt es auch auf Deutsch.

A Rococo Riding Jacket (c. 1745) with hood

I was asked to create a crossover between these two jackets from ‘Patterns of Fashion’:

Quilted satin jacket and skirt, c. 1745-60, and the jacket of a Riding Habit, c. 1730-50

In this case, ‘crossover’ means: The hood of the satin jacket should, instead of the collar, be attached to the jacket of the riding habit.

Also, the jacket should be made of hunter green wool; with a lining of lighter green cotton. The buttons used would be hand-made (!) tin buttons.

Here’s how my project turned out. Unfortunately, I didn’t have a ‘head’ on my dress mannequin to ‘fill’ the hood; so it looks a bit weird when pulled up.
Also, my dress mannequin isn’t just wearing stays underneath the jacket (which, with this shape of jacket, aren’t just optional but mandatory!) but also a woolen brown (and not at all historical) shirt.
You can see the collar of said shirt in some photos. I had to make my mannequin wear that just to accommodate a size that’s basically 2 inches larger on waist, bust and hips than the largest adjustable  size of my dress mannequin.
Last not least, the skirt. I decided that my customer needed one (and made that at basically no extra cost with the jacket). Unfortunately, I didn’t have enough of the green jacket wool left, but more than enough of the green cotton that I used to line the jacket, so I made the skirt using said cotton. And of course a bumroll for the proper shape.

I’ve sewn seams that are even just remotely visible on the outside by hand, by the way.

Click the images to enlarge!

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